Here To There

Saturday, April 09, 2005

End of the Line


N37 0.51' W78 37.08'
Well it's about time I wrapped up this journal I suppose. Apologies to the loyal fan(s) out there who may have been hanging on my every word. It has been a bit of a challenge to write this as it represents the last entry and therefore the very end of the adventure. Time to let it all go.

The train pulled out of Tucson as promised at 2am beginning the three and a half day trip back to New York. The first day of travel was a strange experience. The train line runs parallel with Interstate 10 for long stretches and I was basically watching my previous several weeks of travel in rewind. First up was the truckstop I was stranded at after the accident, then the accident site itself, then Texas and so on ~ all of which I enjoyed from the observation car.


New Orleans was much as I left it though Keely and John had left town the day before I arrived so I treated myself to an expensive hotel with a broken internet connection. Ahhhh the life of the tourist. The last day of travel saw nine states come and go - SC,NC,VA,DC,MD,DE,PA,NJ & NY - the most I've ever traversed in a single day I think. All of which left me in Penn station waiting for yet another train up to Rhinecliff. A nice ending touch was bumping into Peaches who was also heading back up to Omega. As luck would have it he had a ride waiting at the other end so I finally arrived back at Omega 6 weeks and 4 days after departing.


So that's it. A winter of waiting and waiting followed by brief outing topped off with 48 tons of bananas slamming into the van. All in all a great time! Places were visited, sights were seen, people met, pictures taken. Thanks to all those who chipped in to help things along - the cash helped as did the moral support. I can't help but wonder where else I may have ventured given the chance... Though I'm sure it'll all be there the next time I venture forth! I'm happy to be alive and healthy and able to share my tail. Thanks for joining me!

Big thanks and cyber hugs to Wendy whose trust and support made this adventure possible. From a conversation one breakfast time to all you have just read, Wendy made it happen. Sorry about the van by the way...

The journal will now be mothballed for the education and amusement of future generation. Drop by anytime. I'll be adding a few video clips once I get around to editing them so you haven't seen it all yet.

PS: The donation buttons still work! Roll on next year!

Wednesday, March 23, 2005

The Morning After


N? W?
So it is official. The van is no more. The last estimate I heard was $8000 and climbing to sort out its ills. May it rust in peace.......

As for me the last couple of weeks have been a mix of insurance company frustration and good times via the unexpectedly extended stay with my AZ family. The cousins are bundles of energy and joy and we had a blast making movies and playing frisbee. Check out our blockbusters... Hot Topic Tours & Skateboarding. I was fortunate enough to revisit Sedona which is a beautiful location and had my first real good look at those big tall cactus things you see in the westerns - most impressive. Check out the movie on this one. Also got to go to my Aunts new church. Quite the jolly service and attending once every two years (the last time I went) seems to be just about right for me.

According to the chiropractor I may have suffered what they call a little soft tissue damage. He conducted a few tests and ascertained some (hopefully temporary) restriction of movement. Perhaps a regime of regular massages and chiropractor adjustments for the next six months will be required. Wellness Center here I come!

So I now find myself in Tucson organising shipping for the vans contents and awaiting the next train through town (one every couple of days it seems). What with all the excitement I misread the train time and arrived 24 hours early for the 2am train..... A bonus day to be had in Tucson!

All in all not the ending to the grand adventure I had anticipated. Still it's been a fun ride and it's not quite over yet...

Monday, March 14, 2005

The Six Million $ Van


N32 50.67 W106 2.10'
It was a fine run while it lasted though alas, it would seem that all good things come to an end.
I am saddened to report to you my loyal readers that the VW van part of this adventure is over... The harbinger of doom in this case being an 18 wheeler trucking 48 tons of bananas out of North Dakota.

Picture, if you will, the scene. I'm heading west on Interstate 10 near Deming, New Mexico. It's 6.10pm, the sun is setting, in fact we are driving straight into the sun (clue). I am plodding along at my usual 55mph (I've been sticking with this for reasons of fuel economy and to look after the nice new engine). I casually glance upwards into the rear view mirror. It is with more than a little interest that I notice that it is filled, nay dominated, by the front grill of a rather large truck. There's enough time to appreciate that I am obviously not on his radar, that an impact of some sort is imminent and that there's nothing much to be done about it. I even manage to squeeze in a futile honk or two on the horn before I belatedly appear on his radar via the somewhat brutal process of being rammed at high speed.

Cue slowish motion few seconds ~ awareness of smashing noises and sensations, objects flying through the air, the need to control forward motion and get off the road. We both pull over and I decide to take 30 seconds or so to breathe a little and take stock before assessing the situation. It is by such means that I get to meet Jackie B - a trucker of 20 years out of Texas. He fesses up immediately to have being blinded by the sun and not having seen me. No shit. Scary to think how many 60 ton+ vehicles are hurtling blindly along the highways of the country. Well in this case I am lucky enough to be his first ever accident. Maybe there's a prize?

The poor old van is a bit of a mess. The rear end is well fucked up - bumper and read door pushed in, window broken, - everything inside the van is everywhere and there's glass all over. The police are summoned, details exchanged and I start to try and make sense of the chaos inside. My digital camera suffered the most - the flash is dangling by a wire and the rear lcd screen inoperative. The laptop takes a crack to the casing though still seems to be hanging in there. Otherwise it's just a jumbled mess. As for me, after accounting for the required number of limbs and major body parts it seems I am fortunate enough to get off with what feels like a minor dose of whiplash. A stiff neck to be had in the morning I think.

Even now it all seems quite matter of fact. I can't feel angry towards Jackie and even all the damage, obvious loss and necessary change of plans raises little excitement. I deduce that it's either delayed shock or perhaps I'm finally just being in the moment. Ahhhh enlightenment at last. All very funky though I can think of several alternative moments that I would rather have experienced. The upshot is that I am stuck at a truck stop in the middle of nowhere with a seriously damaged van, to be at the mercy of the insurance trade in the morning. Sweet dreams thinks I.

After spending the morning exhausting my cell minutes at roaming rates and reaching no particular conclusion, I decide to attempt a break for civilisation and head for Tucson, AZ. I have relatives north of there and it seems a much better place to connect with them than the void I am currently occupying. So onwards it is whilst making the most of what the van has to offer. The engine seems fine whilst the transmission is a little more challenged. Second gear is a big no no and forth seems to be fifty fifty at best. With such I make Tucson and am rescued by distant relatives who tow me away to safety and I am picked up a couple of hours later by my aunt and I eventually end up in Dewey, AZ at 4.30am. Rah rah family!

So to wrap it up I am alive and well. The van looks like being a write off which is sad (especially after fixing that bearing a couple of days back...) The insurance wheels are turning - Jackie is taking 100% of the blame which should help matters. I'm not quite sure what direction I'll be heading now so watch this space!

Wednesday, March 09, 2005

Wonders of the World


N32 10.56' W104 22.06'
With the front wheel spinning around as good as new and $375 lighter for the privilege, the open road beckons once more. Having been off and on the road again within 24 hours I am well pleased. Thanks aplenty to my Mum and Dad and Sandra for heeding the plea and chipping in towards the expense of it all!

Getting to see Roswell was a fun byproduct of the breakdown so I decide to double the fun and retrace my steps south to visit the Carlsbad Caverns which I would have otherwise passed by. Everything happens for a reasonand these I feel are the the reason the van got sick. Walking down into the incredible underground world deep under the desert was an emotional experience. Such ancient magnificence was breathtaking and quite overwhelming. Definitely one of those must see places during each lifetime.

A few hours later on I begin to grow more than a little disturbed as the van begins labouring, dropping speed and abandoning any notion of having a power reserve. Mechanical issues fresh in my mind I begin concocting woeful scenarios of a dreaded engine relapse and pull over on several occasions to let the following pack pass by. Even the backcountry crucifixion party I came across does little to lift my spirits that much. Glancing at the GPS data on the laptop all worries are exorcised as I see I'm at over 8000ft. Guess I've been chugging up a mountain of some kind these past couple of hours and the van doesn't like the altitude as much as I do. Phew!


The next day brings on yet another natural wonder of the world when I realise an ambition of mine and visit the White Sands National Monument. A vast expanse of great wave-like dunes of gypsum sand stretch as far as the eye can see. Set against a brilliant blue sky the effect is electrifying. Following a 4.5 mile trail on foot through this dream world without seeing another soul is glorious and does wonders for the all over tan. It's amazing that life goes on even out here - hardy little critters and plants seem to make the most of it all. An inspiration for sure.

Monday, March 07, 2005

Exit Texas


N33 20.47 W104 31.40
Only a few hundred miles of Texas to go! The penultimate stop statewise being the McDonald Observatory - which, it turns out 'is equipped with a wide range of state-of-the-art instrumentation for imaging and spectroscopy' - fancy eh? I arrived too late for the guided tour though you can wander around and look at the big white things. That evenings 'star party' (a chance to look through some of their smaller telescopes) was hampered by lots of clouds so it was indoor lecture and demonstration time. This was still worth buying the ticket for and lasted just long enough for the clouds to clear as we left...

One can not traverse the width of Texas without strolling through a portion of it. So the last stop was the Guadalupe Mountains National Park. Steepish mountain roads led to the park headquarters where many trails were on offer. I chose to take the McKittrick Canyon trail, an 8 mile round trip raising 3000ft (mostly the last half mile) - refreshing indeed to be out in some true wilderness.

So, goodbye Texas, hello New Mexico! A pretty rainbow welcomed me into yet another state - ahhh good omens thought I.... Ho ho ho. First up I was once more caught out by the time change which actually occured back in Texas, then I was once again too late to catch last tour of the day this time around the Carlsbad Caverns and finally the van broke down. Bah! My guess is that a wheel bearing had seized and I sit on the roadside awaiting a tow. Three hours and $75 later I'm in Roswell - home of the alien shinanagans and all that jazz.
It was indeed a wheel bearing and the quote to sort it all out comes to $260 +/- eeeek! This represents quite a slice of the budget and could well modify my California plans. So I'm inserting this shameless link to my donations page here and prehaps I'll see San Francisco yet. :)

Off now to check out the alien exhibits!

STOP PRESS: Reporting live from the UFO museum and research center.... A large building filled with alien tat. Roswell turns out to be a very long main street (about 8 miles) with cute street lights and 10 of those ever popular commandments.

Saturday, March 05, 2005

Headin' West


N30 36.42' W104 3.39'
One begins to appreciate just how big Texas is when you start hitting its western regions. It just goes on and on and on. As luck would have it there's something of interest every 100 miles or so and I latched onto the historic line of border forts that pepper the region. These, for the historically challenged, were set up in the 19th century to add a touch of security and stability to the expansion westward in the face of understandable resistance from the Native Americans. Naturally once the natives were dealt with they we left to rot and now live on as little museums for the likes of me to stretch my legs around. 1, 2, 3, 4.

Another historical draw was the National Museum of the Pacific War in Fredericksburg. Having missed out on the National D-Day memorial in Virginia due to their sneaky signposting this was a must see. It turned out to be an excellent exhibition, well constructed, very informative and not at all gung ho. A nice touch was the Japanese peace garden to the left of the big guns - balanced it all out nicely.

It's warm enough down in these parts that I gave the pop up top its first run. Nice to be able to stretch around after conditioning myself to stoop these past few weeks.
Change of plan direction wise. Big Bend is off the itinerary. Looking at the map it seemed a long way to head South just to retrace my steps a couple of days later. Plus there are National Parks aplenty to the North so it's all good.
I eventually hooked the van up with an oil change by buying a filter from an auto parts store (actually two - one for next time) and taking it along to the changers of oil. The van has been good so I treated it to the expensive, high mileage stuff - the least I could do.
To add to the fun I spotted a Texas Highway Patrol car checking me out along highway 10. It shadowed me for a couple of miles, pulled alongside, dropped back a little and followed along for a few minutes. I can only assume that Wendy has no outstanding warrants and that I didn't look too dodgy as they eventually turned around and faded away. Phew!
The day ended just outside of Marfa where I learnt that every night they are visited by mysterious lights in the desert. There is even a custom made viewing area to make the whole experience more comfortable. People came and went - a few fuzzy lights also came and went. It was fun to hang out and feel part of a genuine mystery! It also made a nice place to spend the night.

Thursday, March 03, 2005

R & R


Just a quickie about my day or R&R at the Crossings. A big thumbs up for the facilities, especially the Wellness Center. The sauna, plunge pool, hot tub combo was a real winner. Throw in a heated swimming pool with a great view and you can't go wrong.
The campus had all the usual features - guest services, main hall, cafe, dining hall, sanctuary, guest housing and some forest trails. I took part in a sampler on Iridology and generally took it easy. No seasonal staff here - the service/interaction was friendly though felt somewhat clinical at times. The cafe seemed less of a focal point and the TV in the corner blaring out American Idol was about as much atmosphere as it could muster. They do serve wine, beer, Coke and Dr Pepper though...

I have a lot more images and a few video clips I'll work into a virtual tour of sorts so watch this space. Off now to continue my hunt for an oil change for the van (nobody seems to stock 1982 oil filters - strange that) and then it's south to Big Bend National Park.

Wednesday, March 02, 2005

Crossing Texas


N30 27.411' W97 50.898
I awaken to the sound of engines revving, doors clunking, sun rising and generally friendly sounding chatter. A peek out the curtains reveal my new neighbour's to be a small fleet of early morning fishing folk. Must be quite the early morning activity in these parts - most industrious. So off to an early start for once I decide to make straight for the Texas border no more than a couple of hours away. These last few miles of Louisiana out of New Orleans turn out to be the best. Tranquil streams, meditative cows, school flag day and a ride on a ferry all add to the fun.

And so to Texas. The border town is a pure delight of architectural wonders (for oil folk at least). On one side of the street you would have a quaint neighbourhood of little houses with neat gardens and on the other industrial hell. Pays to have a good set of curtains in such circumstances. Safety is not taken lightly naturally, oh no. As you will see from this picture the protective wooden palette of shielding is tied firmly in place. Most reassuring...

Texans seem to like barns for their cars, obsolete cartoon merchandising opportunities and bridges. All of which lead me to Austin, Texas. Home, as I am sure you know, of Omega's newest friend The Crossings. How could I pass through this fine state without dropping in for a nose around? I arrive as the sun is setting and proceed up the steep and winding road to the campus. I park up, introduce myself at their guest services and have a wander around. My first impression is that there's a good energetic feeling and a sense of well manicured order to it all - though I can't shake the feeling that I'm walking around a science fiction film set.

Their day pass ($20 + tax - no staff discount) seemed to be the best way to check it all out thoroughly so I decided to crash in the parking lot overnight and spend the next day here (the nice lady in guest services said it should be OK).
At last I could sleep peacefully knowing that I was in a safe space without the chance of angry bears or mad axemen visiting me as I slept. Many is the occasion over the last three weeks where I had fallen asleep with all manner of worring noises fueling my dreams.
Alas I had not accounted for Chuck the ninja like night security man. In a display of duty that would have make Jordan proud he rousted me at 1.30am and began the interrogation. Name? Why was I there? Could he see my pass? Had I asked to be there? etc etc. My pathetic excuses weren't cutting it. There was no sympathy for my plight. Last years Omega staff sticker in the van window meant nothing to him (which to be fair is about it's exact value). So for the first time on my journey so far I was evicted from my resting spot. That it should be from Omega made the irony all the more delicious.

I'll be back!